Sustainable textile with my colour project

While I made my textile collection for this project. I just though only how I can explore my inspired to real work. After I studied sustainable textile. I was interested about these theories of the ted's ten research. I wish to create a collection that can related to sustainable textile as much as. I need to created my fabric used techniques that made less pollution to environment as soon as possible.This is developing ideas within the mantle of textile environment design. Specifically of interest to me with my project are No.1 (Design to minimize waste), No.2 (Design for Cyclability), No.4 (design to Reduce Energy and Water use), No. 5 (Design that Explores Clean/Better Technologies), and No.6 (Design That Takes models from Natural/ History). Each of these philosophies interacts with my concept naturally and better technologies.

I managed to created my collar inspired by my recent trip to the sea at Phuket island, and It was all PVC and polyester material for use less energy to cleaned the fabric. The idea to created this collar from sustainable strategy that I am used worked on. And I made a shape the collar instead of cutting out the pattern from scarp of paper for prototype and in the final product I choose to made from scrap fabrics from cutting out the pattern from large piece one of my sample which created too much wastage. Moreover, I have the flat pattern so can translate that relatively easily into a shape organic fabric pattern from scrap fabric and I can use PVC and natural fabric which I dyed with natural dyes.

6 - Design that looks at Models from Nature & History

In this strategy is about how are we use inspiration from natural and history in the past to adapt in sustainable textile. As the textile designer, I consider how much textile designers can find inspiration and information for future sustainable design from studying and reflecting nature as well as textiles, habits and social of the past. Now, social has interested by using textile materials from local than before for example, flex and hemp from Europe, bark close from Asia. As industrial machine use material from the natural world but in the possible ways now we can learn from nature and how we can captivated to naturally provided solution for us. For instant, We used fibre from pants get attach to animal fur, and used spider cell or spiderweb can be inspired development new textile technology to the world. In my opinion, this strategy used and award a natural intelligent and the human intelligent from past, culture and tradition then apply acknowledge to develop the most sustainable systems

"...the accumulated past is lift's best resource for innovation ...reinventing beats inventing nearly every time." Stewart Brand

Examples:

• Shape-memory polymers to mimic natural movement
• 'Lotus effect' nano-coatings
• Velcro
• Austerity repair
• Make-do-and-mend
• D.I.Y/punk customization
• Modern nomads
• Historic dying/ printing techniques

Mortortex

Morphotex butterfly which used the scales on their wings to reflect the light in different ways in order to maintain a vivid, bright blue with shimmer in their wings.

"Teijin Fibers Ltd. started the commercial production of Morphotex, which is an unstained, structurally colored fibre. This technology is based on the biomimetic conception for the microscopic structure of Morpho butterfly's wing, Thin films of 70 nm thickness consisting either of polyester or nylon are laminated in 61 layers alternatively, and four types of basic colors such as red, green, blur and violet are allowed to be developed by precisely controlling the layer thickness according to visible wavelength. Morphotex has wide applications, e.g. filament, short-cut fiber and powdery materials." kenkichi (2005)

This dress is purely a trick of the light, Sydney designer Donna Sgro used Morphotex a technology-based, structurally colored fibre that mimics the microscopic structure of the Morpho butterfly's wings. Manufactured in Teijin, Japan, morphotex requires no inks, dyes or pigments, nor excessive water consumption or industrial waste as no energy is being used.

This project is really inspired me, because basically I'm interesting in textile technology. I knew an traditional dye technique is still useful for now. Moreover in Thailand Thai Silk is very poplar product in Thailand and very famous in the world. Thai Silk has unique quality and shine, they have reflect with the light. For this project, I realize that we can use new technology create a new fibre for same quality as made from nature material with out any dyes.



Reference


Chua, J Malik. (2010) "Morphotex" Dress Mimics Butterfly Wing Shimmer--Without Any dyes. [Online] Available from: <http://www.ecouterre.com/morphotex-dress-mimics-butterfly-wing-shimmer-without-any-dyes/> [Accessed 4 January 2015]

5 - Design that explores clean/better technologies

This strategy explored how replacing systems of production with less energy consuming and smarter technologies to reduce environmental impacts. That are not only better for environment but are also maintainable. If we want to produce garments which are more ecologically friendly then we should make sure that all the procedures used in the design process are cleaner and better than before.

Example: 

• Bio-based materials and processes
• 3-D printing
• Laser
• Water-jet
• Sonic cutting
• Sonic welding
• Digital printing
• 'Re-surfacing' of polyester
• Novel dying technologies
• Digital finishing
• Tagging

All of this are smarter technologies to reduce environment impacts and help us to save time for produces there product in short timing. I though I would try to uncover new and brilliant ways to produce objects/garments and identify innovative technology.

Ever & Again (2007)

This project experimented with sonic cutting and slitting to reshape the shirts, and fusing digital sublimation printing with heat photogram printing. For This she had to translate her heat photogram print design, which used real objects like wire and leaves, into digital repeat using photoshop. 

After I read her project, I explored some research of photogram print as well. I came to realize it was an economic and ecological way of printing as a little waste was generated from the process but they made a short time to process it as well. For this a reason that made me interested and like in digital printing and some technology that can related to created textile. For instant, laser cutting, 3-D printing, digital textile, heat pressing, and heat pleating as well. 

In order to, make mark-making, sometime I would like to choose heat transfer color papers and polyester as a medium for made fabric in design. Moreover, I like this technique, because sometime you will get the different outcome which you are not realize than before. And you never know what kind of result you can get.

My inspired most is consider rethinking the up cycling fabrics, developing them in order to make people close to nature than before. That is a good way which people could get inspirations from nature/environment. In my opinion, now a day textile is not only create some beautiful fabric but also thinking about how are they combination between technologies and science together. Further more some of new technology can created new and amazing garments that consumer unexpected before.

Reference

Upcycling Textiles. (n.d.) Ever & Again(2007).[Online]. Available at:<http://www.upcyclingtextiles.net/#/fashion/> [Accessed on 3 January 2015]

4 -Design to reduce Energy & Water use

After being inspired from lasted post " 3- Design to Reduce Chemical Impacts". I decided to  start explored some companies that plan targeting water and energy combustion. Most water consumption is used in the production stages with dying and washing garments to make them ready for sales. As a designer. I feel that designers need to source the most energy efficient and natural/organic materials as they can to ensure that they are passed on to the consumer that they will treat the garments in the better way.

"60% of the total energy consumption in the lifecycle of t-shirt occurs in the use phase. i.e washing, ironing, drying" (Allowed et al,2006)

Levi Strauss & Co., they are focused on building sustainability into everything they can do. They have already begun to examine their work ethics and have produced a life-cycle assessment (LCA) to find out the process of their most popular a pair of Levi's 501 and Dockers Original Khaki from cotton seed to the landfill. They find out the fact to see how much water, the climate change, and energy are used in the process of their product. It provides the designer with details on how to make a more sustainable and ecological product.

Levi's lifecycle of a jean

1. Cotton Production - As 95% of their product are made from cotton. They looked to source sustainable cotton by working with The Better Cotton Initiative to ensure their cotton is not damaging to environment.

2. Fabric Production - Textile mills around the world will turn the fabric with the supporter of  NRDC's Responsible Sourcing Initiative to encouraging mills to reduce their water chemical and energy used.

3. Garment Manufacturing -  Curt, Sew and finishes.

4. Transport and distribution - Retail, online and wholesale around the world. Attempt to reduce global carbon footprint by looking at the amount of energy use and greenhouse gas emission records.

5. Consumer Use - Consumers can reduce the fill lifecycle climate change impact of their jeans by up to 50 percent by line drying and wash them in cold water

6. Recycling -  A care-tag has been produced in the jeans to encourage the consumer to donate their old jeans to Goodwill rather than adding to the 23.8 billion pounds that ends in landfill yearly.

7. End of life - In 2009, Levi added recycled cotton fibers to their Eco line. Also had begun looking at how denim can be recycled and used for housing insulation.

References

Levi Strauss & Co. (n.d.) Life Cycle Of a Jeans. [Internet] Available from:<http://www.levistrauss.com/sustainability/innovative-practices/planet/> [Accessed 3 January 2015]

2 - Design for Cyclability

This strategy concern about a process of converting waste material or useless products into new product or as same as never was product of better quality or a higher, friendly environment value. To a product through the process of recycling  by itself or human-made ( reuse, repair, recycle, reading,).  By taking some of items that is old or non-use and giving a new design or remade in a better way to creating a new product. From old product. they will cut, change, and edit some part for renew. From all of these scrap fabrics are still functional, beautiful, and useable again. This is a incredibly beneficial to the environment. For example, a old jacket jeans they can remade from jacket to a bag or cut long jacket sleeve to short sleeve as a new design. 

Incredible Upcycled Gown Made From 1,000 Newspaper Cranes.

This origami dress was created by Yuliya Kypro. She turned 1000 paper cranes into a dress. She assembled her headlining bustier dress (complete with a flowing peacock train. This dress piece is not only stunning to audience but also help Eco friendly, she painstakingly folded each and every one of the origami bird from old Metro newspaper. 

Reference

Ecouterre,. (2010) Incredible Upcycled Gown Made From 1,000 Newspaper Cranes. [Internet]. Available from: <http://www.ecouterre.com/extreme-origami-an-upcycled-gown-made-from-1000-newspaper-cranes/> [Accessed: 22 December 2014]

1 - Design to Minimize Waste

Now a day, Environment has attack by human. Human have created and used maximize waste than before. In this reason, environment has many pollution affect by human activity. Everyone is responsible for damaging the environment. Not only personal but also included natural, environmental, social, and economy (macro-, micro). They are all impact to our responsible. We can do at small area is the amount of waste product by man-made to changed by recycle.

In textile and fashion industry concern about design to minimize waste. As a designer,  it is not only recycle garment but also include zero waste cutting, and introduces an idea to used avoid producing stuff that doesn't work, or don't need. For example, a piece of fabric pattern can re-made to new garment, design product with multifunction use, etc.

“Of the total textile fibre produced, up to 65% is lost, post-consumer, to landfill, incineration or composting, which represents between 400,000 and 700,000 tonnes per annum in the UK. Of this, at least 50% is said to be recyclable” (Allwood, 2006)

Holly Mcquilian - Twinset: Embedded Zero Waste 

 A percent of the fabric is wasted in the manufacturing of a garment is not much. When a pattern of fabric is cut out, the leftover scrap fabrics are usually useless. Holly Mcquilian is one of designer who used zero waste cutting for garment. She created a pattern that fit in another part of garment perfectly.

 

                                              Figure1 Embedded Zero-Waste dress, vest and pant 

                                             Figure2 Embedded Zero-Waste Hoody and Tshirt

                                                Figure3 Embedded Zero-Waste Pant and Jacket. 

Embedded Zero-Waste Hoody and TshirtEmbedded Zero-Waste Hoody and Tshirt

Embedded Zero-Waste Hoody and Tshirt

Twinset: Embedded Zero Waste Project are three pattern which explore the possibility of embedded multiply garment in one pattern. In a piece of pattern, they have a different component of garment such as collar, sleeve, etc. 

This is a good idea that has possibility to success.  That is decrease fabric scarps in each garment. It is an extremly successful techniques as it not only minimize watse but also allow the customer to participate in the design process. For me as a textile designer, they are important part to consider about composition, scale, layout, proportion, and distribution of design to explore on garment pattern. Moreover, I create a garment that present a pattern on part of body. There are very useful to use a scarp of pattern to fill it. Furthermore, in my color project, they have some scarps from a part of my prototype collar as well. So in the second prototype, I tried to organize a collar pattern to fit well on to the fabric for leave less fabric scars as more as I can.

References

McQuilian, H. (2011) Twinset: Embedded Zero Waste. [Internet]. Available from: <http://hollymcquillan.com/design-practice/twinset-embedded-zero-waste/> [Accessed: 30 October 2014]


Tedresearch,. (n.d.) Ted's Ten 1 - Design to Minimize Waste. [Internet]. Available from: <http://www.tedresearch.net/1-minimise-waste/> [Accessed: 30 October 2014]