Wednesday, 7 January 2015

Territories of Practice Elective: Sustainable design- Evaluative Report


First, I have been aware of sustainable textile. I had a question in my mind, what is sustainable and what can they help the environment by relate to this issue? After I have been learnt in this course, getting to know Ted research and TEDs ten strategies. I had lectures about of these strategies, which has educated me a lot. I get a lot of knowledge and good opportunity to see and know how designs can work with the issue of sustainability. Also they give me a lot of idea to work with sustainable and carefully thinking about the environment than before.

In a part of the elective we need to create a blog to record some of idea from lectures class which related to sustainable textile. I have been done kind of this process since last year. I have my own blog from last year as well. So I think that make me confuse if I write a new topic for this lectures in own blog. So I decided to create a new blog. And, I was aspect of the blog which different from a normal journal in fact a public information. I wrote and shared my experiences to a worldwide community by blog. I created tags or categories below each my topic for easy to find, share ideas, and discussion. I was aware of recording an idea, and developing it as clarity method. In the present, the world has more change than in the past, it has more sensitive from human behavior. They made pollution to impact environment such as chemical impact, waste , energy, and etc. From this problem, human are considering worlds problem as much as before. In addition, ten strategies, they aim to encourage designer to take and give an idea of sustainable into most important consideration for help and save environment as soon as possible.


In this semester, 2nd years in BA Textile design course, we had made own project is Good vibration: colour project. This project we need to created own colour palette and explore to this project. I was really worked hard with my work in screen-printing and dyeing process. As a result, I was able to directly incorporate developed my new knowledge during the development stage of project. I able to apply my ideas that were discuss with other audience. During this project, first  I was thinking how to combine between minimize waste, cyclability to my own design together. So I stared to researched about material and some arts work that focused on craft maker. From this result, I decided create my project as a series of material by use some of material from human waste such as plastic and PVC which made by dyed PVC, printed, heat transferred neoprene and PVC. Moreover, Teds ten is so insightful and going through the strategies to guide me about sustainability that I had never considered those strategies before. Once, in the lectures, I descript my recent project to my course tutor Bridget, she told me that maybe I can change some of material to natural material instead of man made material. I agree with her advised. Throughout this project, I found biggest problem was the chemical impact. When I dyed the fabric or doing heat transfer which used hot atmosphere there impact with my material by made bad chemical smell air which harmful to health. From this reason, I was realize using natural and environmental material connected to reduce the waste and chemical impacts could reduce this kind of harm and healthy for human than using man-made material.


Furthermore, in the lecture class I have seen the important of collaboration between designer and strategies. They created and shared the strategies in the best way to understand sustainable and ideas together. They are more powerful which push me to understand and interested with sustainable product. Additionally, I hope that in fashion and textile industries could consider, apply and develop Teds Ten to there product not only consider a future material or innovative. The next step of my sustainable study, I will continue thinking about a relationship between sustainability and textile design because I realized there is not a single answer for sustainability but there need to improve reflective thinking of them by practice.

Sustainable textile with my colour project









While I made my textile collection for this project. I just though only how I can explore my inspired to real work. After I studied sustainable textile. I was interested about these theories of the ted's ten research. I wish to create a collection that can related to sustainable textile as much as. I need to created my fabric used techniques that made less pollution to environment as soon as possible.This is developing ideas within the mantle of textile environment design. Specifically of interest to me with my project are No.1 (Design to minimize waste), No.2 (Design for Cyclability), No.4 (design to Reduce Energy and Water use), No. 5 (Design that Explores Clean/Better Technologies), and No.6 (Design That Takes models from Natural/ History). Each of these philosophies interacts with my concept naturally and better technologies.









I managed to created my collar inspired by my recent trip to the sea at Phuket island, and It was all PVC and polyester material for use less energy to cleaned the fabric. The idea to created this collar from sustainable strategy that I am used worked on. And I made a shape the collar instead of cutting out the pattern from scarp of paper for prototype and in the final product I choose to made from scrap fabrics from cutting out the pattern from large piece one of my sample which created too much wastage. Moreover, I have the flat pattern so can translate that relatively easily into a shape organic fabric pattern from scrap fabric and I can use PVC and natural fabric which I dyed with natural dyes.

Sustainable design and metrial






I had finish this project around one month and the half ago. First I felt excited when I heard this project. This project from colors project "good vibrations" My project  by natural- sea and ocean. I need to represent the surface of the sea on to fabric. My specialize is print plus so i wanna created some thing like manipulate with fabric, embroil, and print.






During this project, I though about my research area which area I want to focus on. I choose a lot of focusing area such as over the sea or under the sea. After I had done a lot of experimented, I decided scope at only one point which is over the sea. I really like the sea, when I traveled to the sea, I like to looked over the sea saw what happen in under the sea such as a layers the I saw pass from over the sea surface to under the sea. That made me imaginary in many shape such as grid. I wished created something similar the foam of the sea. I used different materials for example different kind of fabric, hard pvc, and soft pvc. From those material I did more experiment to find which material can represent my idea? My colors palette based on gradual blue and pastel. I did experience with many techniques such as hand dying, heat pressing, and print screen.

Moreover, from last sustainable lecture's group discussion, my group member had useful advised for me. They said I should to find some natural material and technology that related to harmful with environment. So I tried to found a materials. I tried to dyed pvc with natural dyes. In my opinion, this was a good idea, the methods and resources that I experimented, it was not only harmful for the environment but also explore new technology for decrease a waste material as well.


Tuesday, 6 January 2015

9. - Design to Dematerialise & Develop Systems & Services

This strategy (Design to Dematerialize & Develop Systems & Service) shows how systems and services provide access to the function or benefit of the product without the consumer having to own the product. It is a systematic way of thinking, where everything is connected like a complex web of relationships. It highlights the multi-functional development of online/local communities.

"Systems & services design illustrates how consumers needs can be met with services as opposed to tangible products, and at the same time provide economic and environmental benefits" (Manzini, E.2001)



Boris Bike



Boris bikes or Barclays Cycle Hire are a amazing example of a service that everyone can use easily whenever and wherever they want. The cost of a service is a 2 pounds you can hire out the Barclays bicycle bikes for 24 hours and it is only 90 pounds for a year.


First time when I came to London. I saw those bicycles most of everywhere when I visited. I had been curious to known what is services and How everybody can used on this services. Moreover, I felt this idea is every helpful for consumer, also environment. It can decrease the air pollution in the street as well, made people turn to do more activities.  It is such a great method of transport that Boris Johnson hopes will becomes as popular as black caps or red bus around the streets of Londons






References 

Edinburg's News. (n.d.) Boris-bike-style Scheme 'would help city cycling. [Online] Available at:<http://www.edinburghnews.scotsman.com/news/boris-bike-style-scheme-would-help-city-cycling-1-3650919> [Accessed 5 January 2015]

Visitlondon.com. (n.d.) London Cycle Hire Scheme. [Online] Available at:<http://www.visitlondon.com/traveller-information/getting-around-london/london-cycle-hire-scheme> [Accessed 5 January 2015]


Monday, 5 January 2015

8. Design to replace the need to consume

The idea of this strategy is products can adapt and change with age. Also this strategy is also about exploring alternative forms of design and consumption for example co-design and collaborative consumption. 

Many of us buy items that we see in magazines, newspaper, promoting by celebrity, on billboard daily because we are subconsciously convinced the we want those of this products. Is this correct or not? In my view, I know there are items in my wardrobe that have never been worn, or used just only once. I know because the shopping label is still visible. I wondering why I bought this in the foirrst place, greed is certainly the case in the most circumstances or the face we see it in a shop and instantly think we need it. With the development of fast fashion and street fashion, retail sales are growing stronger and faster year by year. People have been spending more money for buying sales products. I think the most important point for consumer would be price and functions. Does buying consumer goods make us happy? If so, surely may be that happiness will fades quickly? So, I through these variety of clothes, people take  " what are they like" in consideration. This is suit with quality and price even these goods is sales or not?

"Most products create a small amount of empathy at the point of purchase, from that point on the length of the product's lifespan depends upon how well the product can maintain empathy with the use. Waste, therefore, can be seen as expired empathy." Jonathan Chapman (2006)

KEEP & SHARE - Amy Twigger Holroyd


The Keep&Share Philosophy states that we should buy less, more special pieces and keep them for longer. They aim to create garments that last, as are sick and tired of pieces being thrown away before they have reached their wearability. They combine the familiar and the unconventional to create designs that will stand the test of time. They emphasize on 'slow fashion'- choosing quality over quantity, where designers are much more aware of the impacts of products on workers, communities and ecosystems.It allows companies to invest in the product in the long term and create more beneficial relationships. I feel this made us more connected to the garment as it has been made in a more loving way rather than been manufactured by a large industrial machine.  


After you buy ur time from Keep& Share. You are too afraid of washing your items then you can send them back to KeepandShare and they will wash it and return it to you. And any damage, well that can be sent back to the company to be repaired.


Reference

Keep & Share. (n.d.) KEEP & SHARE - Amy Twigger Holroyd. [Online] Available at:<http://www.keepandshare.co.uk> [Accessed 5 January 2015]

Sunday, 4 January 2015

Indigo dye (7 - Design for Ethical)

In my opinion, I have always felt strongly about fair-trade and believe that all products ought to be sourced ethically. I thought I would look into sourcing of Indigo Dye Textile. This is a product from my country which it's only right to understand exactly here it came from...

Indigo Dye Textile




The practice of traditional indigo dying, used by farmers and villagers in the past, had disappeared from Thailand in the past 50 years. Now, people turn to interested in this traditional techniques than before. A farmer and villagers find a materials from the depth of forests, searching for the elusive indico seed, to the local markets to find the experts of indigo dying from times gone by. 







Mae Teeta was established by Praphaiphan Daenchai in 1992, Sakolnakorn, Thailand. The product fro this studio was made from the indigo dyed textiles from art and craft the label's produced with personal passion from quality raw materials. Materials are 100% local harvested cotton and 100% natural indigo dyed, without synthetic chemicals added. 

Indigo is the "King of Dye". Natural indigo dye is an ancient wisdom dated back thousand of years. A variety of plants can yield indigo dyed or blue color. The primary indigo species used in North eastern. Thailand is botanically considers "true" indigo: Indigofera tinctoria. Indigo is one of the two natural plant dyes used techniques. while all other natural dye use heat to obtain color in to fabric.

They have a huge fair-trade in Thailand "OTOP". OTOP is from One Tambon One Product. It is a local entrepreneurship each area in Thailand. The aims to support the unique locally made and marketed products of each Thai tambon (subdistrict) all over Thailand.


References 

Mae Meeta. (n.d.) Mae Meeta Shop Organic clothes and textile. [Online].  Available from:
<http://maeteeta.com> [Accessed 4 January 2015]

Ninnart., (n.d.) One Tambon One Product (OTOP) A Showcase for Thai Folk Crafts. [Online] Available from: <http://www.thaiwaysmagazine.com/thai_article/2014_one_tambon_one_product/one_tambon_one_product.html> [Accessed 4 January 2015]


7 - Design for Ethical product

This is about that utilizes and invests in traditional craft skills in the UK and abroad. It is about ethical production which supports and values workers rights, and the sourcing of fair trade material. What is ethical production means, and how it differs for each scale of production and manufacture.

some product are made under increasingly competitive and unethical conditions where companies charm out product without thinking of labour or worker. This strategy aims to support fair trade; promoting international standards of ethical productions, labour, and environmental policies in the trading of products. This includes payment at a fair price, gender equality and sanitary working conditions, the materials used also need to sourced ethically. Fair trade products include many products from local area.




The practice of traditional indigo dying, used by farmers and villagers in the past, had disappeared from Thailand in the past 50 years.Upon graduating, she invited her mother to reform the traditional natural indigo dyed techniques with her. Her journey took her from the depth of forests, searching for the elusive indigo seed, to the local markets to find the experts of indigo dying from times gone by.As a result, Mae Teeta is proud to be among the few artisans that help preserve this natural and local heritage of Thailand. The indigo dyed textiles form art and craft the label’s produced with personal passion from quality raw materials. Materials are 100% local harvested cotton and 100% natural indigo dyed, no synthetic chemicals added. The processes used have remained unchanged for centuries, and the label provides innovative designs while consciously continuing the charm of this heritage.


The practice of traditional indigo dying, used by farmers and villagers in the past, had disappeared from Thailand in the past 50 years.Upon graduating, she invited her mother to reform the traditional natural indigo dyed techniques with her. Her journey took her from the depth of forests, searching for the elusive indigo seed, to the local markets to find the experts of indigo dying from times gone by.As a result, Mae Teeta is proud to be among the few artisans that help preserve this natural and local heritage of Thailand. The indigo dyed textiles form art and craft the label’s produced with personal passion from quality raw materials. Materials are 100% local harvested cotton and 100% natural indigo dyed, no synthetic chemicals added. The processes used have remained unchanged for centuries, and the label provides innovative designs while consciously continuing the charm of this heritage.

6 - Design that looks at Models from Nature & History

In this strategy is about how are we use inspiration from natural and history in the past to adapt in sustainable textile. As the textile designer, I consider how much textile designers can find inspiration and information for future sustainable design from studying and reflecting nature as well as textiles, habits and social of the past. Now, social has interested by using textile materials from local than before for example, flex and hemp from Europe, bark close from Asia. As industrial machine use material from the natural world but in the possible ways now we can learn from nature and how we can captivated to naturally provided solution for us. For instant, We used fibre from pants get attach to animal fur, and used spider cell or spiderweb can be inspired development new textile technology to the world. In my opinion, this strategy used and award a natural intelligent and the human intelligent from past, culture and tradition then apply acknowledge to develop the most sustainable systems

"...the accumulated past is lift's best resource for innovation ...reinventing beats inventing nearly every time." Stewart Brand

Examples:

  • Shape-memory polymers to mimic natural movement
  • 'Lotus effect' nano-coatings
  • Velcro
  • Austerity repair
  • Make-do-and-mend
  • D.I.Y/punk customization
  • Modern nomads
  • Historic dying/ printing techniques


Mortortex




Morphotex butterfly which used the scales on their wings to reflect the light in different ways in order to maintain a vivid, bright blue with shimmer in their wings.

"Teijin Fibers Ltd. started the commercial production of Morphotex, which is an unstained, structurally colored fibre. This technology is based on the biomimetic conception for the microscopic structure of Morpho butterfly's wing, Thin films of 70 nm thickness consisting either of polyester or nylon are laminated in 61 layers alternatively, and four types of basic colors such as red, green, blur and violet are allowed to be developed by precisely controlling the layer thickness according to visible wavelength. Morphotex has wide applications, e.g. filament, short-cut fiber and powdery materials." kenkichi (2005)

This dress is purely a trick of the light, Sydney designer Donna Sgro used Morphotex a technology-based, structurally colored fibre that mimics the microscopic structure of the Morpho butterfly's wings. Manufactured in Teijin, Japan, morphotex requires no inks, dyes or pigments, nor excessive water consumption or industrial waste as no energy is being used.



This project is really inspired me, because basically I'm interesting in textile technology. I knew an traditional dye technique is still useful for now. Moreover in Thailand Thai Silk is very poplar product in Thailand and very famous in the world. Thai Silk has unique quality and shine, they have reflect with the light. For this project, I realize that we can use new technology create a new fibre for same quality as made from nature material with out any dyes.



Reference


Chua, J Malik. (2010) "Morphotex" Dress Mimics Butterfly Wing Shimmer--Without Any dyes. [Online] Available from: <http://www.ecouterre.com/morphotex-dress-mimics-butterfly-wing-shimmer-without-any-dyes/> [Accessed 4 January 2015]





Saturday, 3 January 2015

5 - Design that explores clean/better technologies

This strategy explored how replacing systems of production with less energy consuming and smarter technologies to reduce environmental impacts. That are not only better for environment but are also maintainable. If we want to produce garments which are more ecologically friendly then we should make sure that all the procedures used in the design process are cleaner and better than before.

Example: 
  • Bio-based materials and processes
  • 3-D printing
  • Laser
  • Water-jet
  • Sonic cutting
  • Sonic welding
  • Digital printing
  • 'Re-surfacing' of polyester
  • Novel dying technologies
  • Digital finishing
  • Tagging
All of this are smarter technologies to reduce environment impacts and help us to save time for produces there product in short timing. I though I would try to uncover new and brilliant ways to produce objects/garments and identify innovative technology.







Ever & Again (2007)

This project experimented with sonic cutting and slitting to reshape the shirts, and fusing digital sublimation printing with heat photogram printing. For This she had to translate her heat photogram print design, which used real objects like wire and leaves, into digital repeat using photoshop. 

After I read her project, I explored some research of photogram print as well. I came to realize it was an economic and ecological way of printing as a little waste was generated from the process but they made a short time to process it as well. For this a reason that made me interested and like in digital printing and some technology that can related to created textile. For instant, laser cutting, 3-D printing, digital textile, heat pressing, and heat pleating as well. 

In order to, make mark-making, sometime I would like to choose heat transfer color papers and polyester as a medium for made fabric in design. Moreover, I like this technique, because sometime you will get the different outcome which you are not realize than before. And you never know what kind of result you can get.

My inspired most is consider rethinking the up cycling fabrics, developing them in order to make people close to nature than before. That is a good way which people could get inspirations from nature/environment. In my opinion, now a day textile is not only create some beautiful fabric but also thinking about how are they combination between technologies and science together. Further more some of new technology can created new and amazing garments that consumer unexpected before.



Reference

Upcycling Textiles. (n.d.) Ever & Again(2007).[Online]. Available at:<http://www.upcyclingtextiles.net/#/fashion/> [Accessed on 3 January 2015]





Friday, 2 January 2015

4 -Design to reduce Energy & Water use


After being inspired from lasted post " 3- Design to Reduce Chemical Impacts". I decided to  start explored some companies that plan targeting water and energy combustion. Most water consumption is used in the production stages with dying and washing garments to make them ready for sales. As a designer. I feel that designers need to source the most energy efficient and natural/organic materials as they can to ensure that they are passed on to the consumer that they will treat the garments in the better way.

"60% of the total energy consumption in the lifecycle of t-shirt occurs in the use phase. i.e washing, ironing, drying" (Allowed et al,2006)

Levi Strauss & Co., they are focused on building sustainability into everything they can do. They have already begun to examine their work ethics and have produced a life-cycle assessment (LCA) to find out the process of their most popular a pair of Levi's 501 and Dockers Original Khaki from cotton seed to the landfill. They find out the fact to see how much water, the climate change, and energy are used in the process of their product. It provides the designer with details on how to make a more sustainable and ecological product.





Levi's lifecycle of a jean







1. Cotton Production - As 95% of their product are made from cotton. They looked to source sustainable cotton by working with The Better Cotton Initiative to ensure their cotton is not damaging to environment.
2. Fabric Production - Textile mills around the world will turn the fabric with the supporter of  NRDC's Responsible Sourcing Initiative to encouraging mills to reduce their water chemical and energy used.
3. Garment Manufacturing -  Curt, Sew and finishes.
4. Transport and distribution - Retail, online and wholesale around the world. Attempt to reduce global carbon footprint by looking at the amount of energy use and greenhouse gas emission records.
5. Consumer Use - Consumers can reduce the fill lifecycle climate change impact of their jeans by up to 50 percent by line drying and wash them in cold water
6. Recycling -  A care-tag has been produced in the jeans to encourage the consumer to donate their old jeans to Goodwill rather than adding to the 23.8 billion pounds that ends in landfill yearly.
7. End of life - In 2009, Levi added recycled cotton fibers to their Eco line. Also had begun looking at how denim can be recycled and used for housing insulation.



References

Levi Strauss & Co. (n.d.) Life Cycle Of a Jeans. [Internet] Available from:<http://www.levistrauss.com/sustainability/innovative-practices/planet/> [Accessed 3 January 2015]